Offset nuts climbing Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin DMM Offset Nut 9, 37g; DMM Offset Nut 8, 29g; DMM Offset Nut 7, 27g; TOTAL: 193 g. Jan 7, 2019 · A relative newcomer to the offset micro nut market, the Black Diamond Offset Micro offers some new tweaks on the older classic designs. Here you can find all our climbing nuts. micro nuts, offset nuts, brass nuts, cams and more. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. Each of these are described below. Nuts set. Which makes the whole passive protection part of the Trad Rack™ 1. Oct 25, 2024 · These durable climbing nuts are very similar to other popular aluminum offsets available, though the red offset is a key size to complete the entire range of sizes between the largest brass offset and the smallest aluminum offsets Jan 6, 2020 · We think if you are looking for a day-in, day-out micro nut for general-purpose trad climbing, we'd go with the aluminum headed DMM Peenuts. Related Searches. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. We were initially skeptical that these lightweight climbing cams wouldn't hold up as well as their predecessors, but after a couple of years of use at this point, they've held many falls, been up quite a few large walls, and are in just as good a shape as when we bought them. 00-20%. Feb 2, 2024 · Hollow, Curved Nuts | Modern trad climbing gear boasting a lighter construction and an offset shape for better placements. If it is inward and upward flaring, you can use any kind of nut, but an offset might be a safer bet because it can be set in place to prevent it from moving. DMM Offset Alloy Nuts. Originally designed by Hugh Banner, and now resurected due to popular demand. com. 95 (0) 0 reviews. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. 2 sets of offset micro nuts, 1 set of offset normal nuts, 2 cam hooks, 1 grappel, 1 talon and a handful of rivet hangers is the special sauce to the hard spots. But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. DMM HB Alloy Offsets May 9, 2024 · Its name is a give away - these climbing nuts are incredibly lightweight, making them an effortless addition to your climbing gear. Shop great deals on active and passive protection for performance, comfort and safety. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Enhance your gear with DMM Brass Offsets to handle every trad climbing adventure. However, for aid climbing or thin scary trad climbing where you want every little bit of holding power you can get (coming from the heads deforming on the rock), the DMM Brass Offset holds it down. Trango Offset Nuts 5 Pack. Jan 31, 2023 · Having a home for all your climbing gear is essential. Cams, nuts and slings are used at most climbing areas. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. The DMM ones are superb. Offset nuts are undoubtedly superior in most cases. Tapering cracks where nuts fit very securely sometimes can create more difficult placements. Check out our great prices and latest deals! DMM Brass Offset Set 2-4 £47. This versatility offers users the ability to handle various climbing scenarios, whether at the gym or rockfaces. DMM Offsets are the ideal passive protection nuts for climbing in Australian conditions. They are the same nuts created by legendary climber Hugh Banner back in the '60s, with a renovated design that renders them much lighter while still preserving their strength. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the Jul 28, 2022 · Brass nut (L), Standard nut (M), Offset nut (R) This is what you probably came here to read about. The head's asymmetrical taper gives us solid protection in flared cracks and pin scars, while its brass-silicone blend gives a serious bite that won't pull through. 4. Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. Shop great deals on passive climbing protection for performance, comfort and safety. Our climbing protection is the trusted industry standard and we're always improving performance. Astro Nuts and Curve Nuts both feature a unique design with a vertical curve The DMM Climbing Brass Offset Nuts are specifically designed to bite into irregular placements like flared cracks and pin scars, slotting into placements where standard aluminum nuts struggle to fit. As with their aluminum counterparts, the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut, the swage is integrated into the head of the nut, making them lighter and less bulky than some other micro nuts. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. These nuts with special shapes are amazingly sticky. Most trad climbers will build a rack with regular (non-offset) cams and then add offset cams if the places they climb require them. The breaking strength is significantly higher in comparable sizes, so they're much more confidence-inspiring for free climbing. Unfortunately, there is no one perfect trad rack to take with you every time. I think it should be their next thing to do. Wild Country Superlight Rocks. If weight savings are important they are a great way to shave a few ounces. Buy now at Bananafingers and enjoy free shipping on purchases over £60. Then I noticed a small crack in the face out right. I went full offset a while ago, and have never looked back. Totem cams are also great for flaring cracks there. Feel strong and confident heading up and down your next wall, crag, boulder or slab. Check which types are most commonly used at your chosen climbing area before you commit to buying a full set. Oct 21, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. 95 How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. They feature holes on the larger faces of the alloy head and they fit great in flared cracks. 10s, you should probably get a full double rack of . Stopper Set 4-13 (Black Diamond or other manufacturer). Borrow, scrounge, or get these cams however you can. Oct 31, 2024 · Tiny brass climbing nuts are considered mandatory for any thinly protected route, from steep El Cap aid lines to Eldorado Canyon sketch-fests, and the DMM HB Brass Offsets are our review team's pick for the best micro nut. 95 $ 69. 5-3 C4 cam size. DMM Halfnuts. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. The only issue is they sit so well in the rock, sometimes they get stuck and don’t come out. The asymmetrical design increases the range of cracks that can be used for protection whilst trad climbing. Apr 4, 2025 · The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are everything we love about the original Camalot C4s with a weight reduction of 25%. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that Offset Nuts: Rather than curved surfaces, these feature a wedge with a top-to-bottom taper and a front-to-back taper. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing overall strength. If you’re climbing 5. This shape is considered more secure in flares and pin scars. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. Superlights are ideal when you’re travelling light on big mountain routes. Check out our article on alpine draws here! Offset nuts. I am curious if Nathan feels differently though. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. Superlight Offsets have a standard double strand cable and combine the curve of Rocks with a side taper. Offwidth climbing is the best climbing. 95 £60 On slightly flared placements nothing fits like a DMM Alloy Offset Nut. Feb 7, 2021 · When the gear is that small you want to have the most surface contact you can get. From rock climbing offset nuts and stoppers, The Wilderness Exchange™ gets you geared up for climbing adventures. A micro nut is used where no other protection will fit. Tenaya Offset Nuts: Precision and Reliability for Every Climb Elevate your climbing experience with Tenaya Offset Nuts, designed for climbers who demand precision and reliability. Hier findest Du die DMM OFFSET NUTS als Set mit 5 Größen. 3 Items Sort By Most Popular Product Name Price Newest first Set Descending Direction Looking for the best climbing protection? From rock climbing cams to friends to offset nuts & stoppers, The Wilderness Exchange gets you geared up for climbing adventures. Hope that helps. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. Smaller than a standard nut, it's used in thin cracks and old piton scars. For example, in some places offset nuts and tricams are invaluable, and other places they're specialty pieces. Oftentimes, a gear sling is all you need to keep your cams and stoppers all in one place and organized by size. Sep 12, 2014 · The least useful BallNutz sizes were the largest, which could be bested by cams in nearly every situation, and the placement of smaller sizes needs pretty specific circumstances. Yes, you can get up most walls without them; but offset cams are usually the most bomber clean placement in a pin scar. Add 'em to your free climbing rack for a boost in strength in the small sizes (compared to other aluminum nuts). Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season DMM passive protection and active protection for trad climbing, and ice and winter protection. Wild Country Rock Wire Nut Set - #6-10. Ideal for protecting irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot, The DMM Offset Nuts boast a robust 12kN strength rating and are colour coded for ease of selection. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. Jun 24, 2013 · Offset cams In the last book, offset cams were "recommended" in the racks. For many of the longer routes, a LARGE number of slings are needed—it is common for pitches to wander. There are usually more options for placing cams than nuts, so it’s better to place nuts when you can and save the cams for later. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them during the Nuts are much lighter and cheaper so it’s easy to carry a lot of them. DMM Wallnut Stopper Set - Sizes 1-6. Now we list most racks as requiring 1-2 sets. It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. 14 Tage Rückgaberecht versandfrei* ab € 100,- Kaufberatung Fachhändler aus Österreich Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. Both alloys are softer metals than the more common aluminum. Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. I definitely place them more often than standard nuts. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Offset cams, nuts and hooks have worked perfectly fine for nearly every route I have climbed. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a The full set of DMM Alloy Offset Nuts. Cams are quicker to place – great if you’re getting pumped and need to place gear quickly. 75 to #3 will give you about 4 options for every placement. Many of the advantages of the Micro Stoppers have potential downsides Mar 2, 2010 · Metolius Astro Nuts are silicon-bronze micro climbing nuts available in five sizes. $15 per Stopper or $75 for a full set (#7–11), blackdiamondequipment. I also like Rocks on a Wire in larger sizes better than Stoppers, Huevos or Wedgies because Rocks have less tendency to slide up and down the cable while being Apr 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: I have both peenuts and DMM brass offsets. Read full article: How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. Shop the best selection of Trango Climbing Hardware at Backcountry. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. Think of micro-nuts as a last resort—you need a piece of gear and the only option is the tiniest crack where only a micro-nut fits. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Like their aluminum counterparts, they are the most updated version of a tried and true classic. Except it still retains the original ground-breaking geometry that separated the Rock from all other nuts. DMM The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts(and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Jan 5, 2018 · I don't think you need regular and offset nuts. May 30, 2024 · As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. Oct 1, 2001 · The Wild Country Rock is the original nut for trad climbing with a few tweaks to accommodate the modern climber. The smallest ones are mostly for aid climbing and you likely won’t ever use them free climbing. 5mm Mammut Infinity or Maxim Equinox (BB) and one 60m x 8mm for double Yosemite granite has many pin-scared cracks so a few sets of climbing nuts and offset nuts are essential. Jun 19, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. One set of nuts One sets of offset nuts 14 alpine draws I have recently been considering buying a few small dragonfly’s for tiny placements. I've logged more than 200 days climbing in Squamish. Lightweight aluminum design keeps weight down, and color coded heads make it easy to grab the right size when you're on the sharp end. 290. $54. Black Diamond Stoppers. HB Alloy Offset Nut. Top Rated. Trango Offset Nuts 5 Pack - The Trango Offset Nuts 5 Pack is designed to fit in a wider variety of crack placements than traditional chocks or small cams. Add to that some hex’s which are great for protecting parallel cracks and you are really starting to get a great collection of passive protection (gear that you place and then remove as your second climbs past). I didn't know that nuts aren't meant to be offset – that most wired nuts presume that cracks are the same width at the back of the placement as at the front. Brass heads for optimal characteristics in marginal placements Micro protection lets you protect cracks where normal siz. Graham Wild Country Pro Key with Leash - Lightweight Rock Climbing Nut Tool. Add HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 to Compare . I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. They are amazing in eldo and great for Yosemite/toulomne. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes The new Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts have an asymmetric taper for greater stability in flaring placements. Both types place brilliantly and the larger offsets work in so many sneaky placements. May 17, 2024 · Micro-nuts, as you might expect, are smaller nuts. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. In rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire that climbers use for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts are made with a carefully considered head geometry so that they fit securely into placements where cams or regular nuts would be unstable, flared cracks and peg scars are good examples. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Micro Nuts. Sale Ends May 26 . 00 Regular Price €80. The unique offset design p DMM Alloy Offset Nut Elevate your climbing experience with the DMM Alloy Offset Nut, a must-have for any serious climber. HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. DMM bought their assets and restarted the offset nut product lines. Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha The DMM Brass Offsets are a crucial tool for protecting small flared cracks, they often fit perfectly into spaces nothing else will fit into. Hollow, Curved Nuts | Modern trad climbing gear boasting a lighter construction and an offset shape for better placements. Hugh was a real character and an extremely talented climber. FREE delivery Jan 30 A double set of totems (exclude orange), aliens, offset aliens and C4s #0. Tapered or “offset” nuts are great for pin scars and flares, but don’t overlook opportunities to place them “backward,” with the wide side deeper in the crack. I have never encountered a route where that bit me in the rear, offset nuts seem to fit everywhere a regular nut would, and then some. Hmm, that might be perfect for one of these new Black Diamond Offset Nuts I was carrying … The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. Nov 17, 2011 · These have quickly become my go-to nut for climbing on the slippery purple quartzite at Devil's Lake and the sandstone in Necedah. Some climbing areas, such as Yosemite, are well known to have cracks that readily accept offset cams. An extensive set of nuts, rocks, and hexes is imperative if you’re looking to improve your climbing ability beyond the basics—any pro climber will tell you that. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. set of nuts. Climbing on Gimmer yesterday, on one long pitch I got to the belay stance, placed three offsets for the anchor, then as my mate was coming up noticed that every single nut he was taking out was also an offset. Feb 25, 2015 · Hybrid or Offset Cams. Offset nut set designed for ultralight alpine and trad climbing; Offset shape fits flared cracks and irregular placements; Single-wire design minimizes weight without sacrificing strength; Color-coded anodized heads for easy size identification; Machined aluminum alloy heads offer excellent bite and durability If a feature is more flared, you will probably need to use an offset nut to protect it. Offset (1) Offset (Showing 1 Item in) 0 (1) Wiregate Nut Tool. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. The document has moved here. Engineered for precision and reliability, these nuts are crafted from high-quality alloy, ensuring durability and strength in challenging conditions. Find the best climbing nuts from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Wild Country. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. These nuts are crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring a secure fit in irregular cracks and flares. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them during the Dec 13, 2009 · If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. Sep 30, 2011 · The climbing didn’t look too bad, but I was on sandstone, and tend to be cautious when I know a foothold could snap without warning. Jan 6, 2020 · These durable climbing nuts are very similar to other popular aluminum offsets available, though the red offset is a key size to complete the entire range of sizes between the largest brass offset and the smallest aluminum offsets: Rating Categories: CAMP USA Pro Nut: DMM Alloy Offset: Metolius Ultralight DMM Peenut: Black Diamond Offset DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3 Offset Nuts Bring 1 set of regular offset nuts and 2 sets of brass micro nuts (even xtras of brass #4-6). After sinking all that money into a set of climbing nuts, you’ll definitely want to be able to remove them! A nut tool is a lightweight pick climbers carry to be able to remove nuts which have become too-tightly wedged into their placements. The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. The unique offset design provides superior place Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers. Don’t dicker around. Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. It is fortunate that I didn't know this, because it isn't true. The Offset Micro uses a copper-iron mix with similar overall characteristics to brass. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Placing Offset Nuts. The Alloy Offset Nut offers you placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, due to their complex offset shape. And I really love them nuts. Alpine quickdraws. Generally, a triple set of cams to #3 Camalot and a double set of offset nuts will be a sufficient rack for many clean aid routes. They chose not to change the numbering on the nuts, and instead just standardized the color scheme to match their lineup. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't use, a cam, and a finicky offset micronut isn't confidence inspiring. Apr 11, 2018 · They effectively halved the number of mid-range nuts I needed on trad and mixed pitches. 5-4) Ropes: 1 60m x 9. When a climbing cam is used, it is mostly in the thin to hand size (we'll warn you when bigger gear is needed in the guidebook!). BD Black Diamond Offset Stopper Set 7-11 climbing nuts. And those nuts are superlight. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. These cams are distinguished by the fact that two of the four cam lobes are slightly larger in size. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for trad climbing Micro nuts for secure placements in flared cracks Asymmetrical tapered heads for irregular crack fitting Thicker wires for increased strength and durability Color-coded sizes for easy identification Lightweight design for minimal rack weight Brass and silicone construction for optimal performance Versatile placement range for various Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Hexes, tricams, ball nuts and big bros could be either essential or useless depending on the area. Mar 8, 2017 · DMM Offset Alloy Nuts: 5 for $70. Hollowed Out | Superlight weight rids excess materials without inhibiting overall durability or strength. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. Vector nuts feature an offset shape for placements in flared cracks. Nut Tools. To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. Offering something just a little bit different, the Superlight Offset Rocks are a breath of fresh air and per size, by far the lightest passive climbing protection in the world. He made numerous impressive first ascents during his lifetime, including classic test pieces such as The Mangler Sep 24, 2020 · I have the option of tripples for small sized cams as well as tricams and now I also have the bd offset nuts from small red-purple. DMM Wallnuts. 95. The Alloy Offset is a set of climbing nuts by DMM. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. The asymmetrical taper of the heads deliver a more stable bite in flared constrictions, while the stiff cables ease placement. Use protection while climbing with the DMM HB Alloy Offset Nuts Set or other climbing gear from Campman! Fast and free shipping on orders over $50! The Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks Set 5-10 is a full set of the uniquely lightweight and highly functional offset climbing nuts. If the price difference doesn't bother you, go for the brass. They are really light but they are weaker and less durable than normal Rocks. The brass ones get damaged easily if you try to jerk them out, so bring a baby hammer to tap them out with your nut tool. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. Agree with the offset nuts suggestion Shop for climbing micro nuts at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. Special Price €66. We have found them perfect for protecting climbs on Grampians sandstone, in the Bluies, or anywhere where cracks are found. Versatile crack protection Offset nuts are designed to fit in a wider variety of crack placements than traditional chocks or small cams. Ideal for both trad and aid climbing, DMM Offsets seat securely in places where regular nuts and Add HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 to Compare . See more of our top gear picks in our 2018 Climbing Gear Guide: Editors’ Choice Awards. You’ll likely carry the grey and green offset often once you start getting familiar with them, not just when the route calls for RPs. Two sets of nuts with a removal tool between them. . The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? This is for trad climbing incidentally, the bigger ones might join my winter rack too. 10/10 would whip. com, where you'll find premium outdoor gear and clothing and experts to guide you through selection I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Available individually or as a set of 5. Dislikes. Offset Side Profile | Offset shapes slot into cracks and most placements better than a standard Rock profile. Jun 29, 2021 · Compliment your standard nuts with similar sized Offset nuts which offer a different shape and place really well. May 26, 2022 · Why would you be concerned whether it was a regular nut or an offset nut? Far more important is the quality of the placement. Superlights are an extremely versatile nut, fitting many types of cracks and rock types well. Up to 0. Trango offset nuts for trad climbing Lightweight aluminum climbing nuts Best offset nuts for rock climbing Durable offset nuts for crack placements Color coded offset nuts for easy selection Offset nuts with 7kN strength rating Aluminum climbing nuts for beginners Offset nut sizes for various crack widths Trango climbing gear for outdoor adventures High-quality offset nuts there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? Oct 19, 2021 · OFFSET NUTS. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. But like offset cams, they take a bit of practice to place. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot. I’m climbing in red rock This article focus on those from reputable brands, the kinds of nuts that most climbers looking to get started on their first free climbing nut rack should look at. Nuts can also be placed in horizontal cracks. Have been debating ditching the non offset nuts all together with the exception of possibly the stuff smaller than the #7 small red. offsets nuts are really nice to have Climbing Nuts Huge brand selection - Free delivery to UK from £75 - Buy online now! Dispatch of goods within 24 h Expert service. Tailor your rack to suit each climb. Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. Which one gives you greater surface area, which one is better suited for the direction of pull, which one is more likely to resist an outward pull. Moved Permanently. Blue totem I find so many good places and it just bites into the rock Dec 13, 2009 · This gives many placement options and in this respect they barely beat out the Astro Nut and are a lot better than the DMM Brass Offsets. Read more Helpful May 21, 2020 · Nuts. These nuts complement your Buy trad climbing gear online from Sgùrr Shop | Affordable range of nuts, hexes and wires. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. They are awesome for pin scars and the straight-sided taper makes it easy to judge placement quality. This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a serious runout. What is important is to get to know your climbing area through trial and error, getting beta through other climbers, and then choosing gear appropriately. **Alloy Offset Sets** - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. 2021 Guides Choice Award Winner The Offsets were originally designed by Hugh Banner, the climbing gear maestro who founded HB Climbing Equipment. My fav gear by far is black and blue totems. If you climb in an area with pin scars, or potentially just irregular conglomerate rock, or just with cracks that flare outward, having a set of hybrid or “offset” cams can be a lifesaver, literally. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. The Vector nut set comes in 5 different sizes and are colour coded for easy recognition of size when on the sharp end. 2 through 5 and singles of 0 through #8. MICRO NUTS Climbing nuts, also known as wires, rocks or stoppers are thin wedges of metal that are slotted into constrictions in cracks to provide protection when climbing traditionally outdoors. The Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nut Set #1-10 gives us ten easy-to-place offset nuts to be the foundation of our trad rack. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. Irregular is better. Apr 13, 2025 · Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. 75, I often have a double rack with half totems and half z4s Aug 13, 2022 · Offset nuts were originally manufactured by "HB" until they went out of business ~2005. Also a set of offset nuts including RPs (DMM brass nuts). Pins were usually pounded in with that same degree of upward tilt, so the scars give placements that result in the optimum pull direction for your offset nuts. For a hard nail-up, you may need 4-5 sets of cams, 50+ pitons, 100+ copperheads, a bolt kit and plenty of other obscure pieces of ironmongery. I myself want to add a set of non offset small stoppers to round out my rack. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the only thing that would fit; they didn't feel great climbing above it, and when fallen on you are gonna have a hard time removing it. Bring 2-3 of each size for most routes. I can’t currently justify keeping them on my rack, even while aid climbing. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Based on the famed Hugh Banner Offset stoppers, these DMM Alloy Offsets offer versatile placement opportunities for flaring cracks and pin scars. How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. This set comes with ten different sized climbing nuts which allow for a wide range of applications. Aug 12, 2014 · I'm looking to add some offset nuts to my rack and I'm looking for some input on which smaller offsets to go for. In addition to these vertical placements, nuts can also be placed in rails (horizontal racks) that are wider on the inside than they are at the Jan 17, 2010 · When Leeper stopped production of cam hooks a few years ago, the aid climbing community was terrified. 046 g. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. Offset nuts function like offset cams. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. If the crack is offset or flared an offset is likely a better fit. It’s thinner, lighter, and easier to place and clean. Add 'em to your aid climbing rack to slot into Lost Arrow piton scars - faster and rock friendly! 1-3 sets absolutely necessary on most El Cap routes. Sustainability & Recyclability. Get a set as a back up for your Wallnuts and prepare to be converted. Kirtis wrote:I use to think offset nut were Alloy Offset nuts offer superb placements in difficult to protect Welsh mountain crags, old peg scars and anywhere you might find flared cracks. They will fit in places regular nuts won’t, and are quite confidence-inspiring. Offset nuts—metal wedges that taper both top to bottom and front to back—are considered mandatory in areas where flaring cracks or pinscars abound, like Joshua Tree National Park or Yosemite National Park. Offset Cams. The lightweight aluminum design keeps weight down, and color-coded heads make it easy to grab the right size when youâ€re on the sharp end. Offset nuts are used more often than normal nuts in most of the areas I climb. Those nuts are: Wild Country Rocks. $69. Wild Country Superlight Offset Nuts: 6 for $70. Aug 8, 2022 · If a slot is plagued by obstructions or a partial flare, a nut placed sideways (that is, broad side facing out) may wedge in the sweet spot. Aug 27, 2017 · I think offsets are great. I honestly find a placement for my set of offsets more often than normal nuts Small but mighty. Torque Nuts: DMM Torque Nut 4, 144g; DMM Torque Nut 3, 100g; DMM Torque Nut 2, 72g; DMM Torque Nut 1, 55g; TOTAL: 371 g; And the DMM Nutbuster is 54g. Nuts are the staple of any trad or aid rack as they provide solid protection when placed correctly. Apr 8, 2011 · Climbing Gear Nuts: 1 set DMM Offset Nuts or ABC Huevos (BB) 1 set DMM Peenuts 1 set DMM Brass Offsets (optional) Cams: 1-2 sets Metolius Master Cams (#00-4) 1 set Metolius Offset Master Cams (optional) (#00-4) 2 sets Black Diamond Camalot C4s to (#0. What would replace the most useful clean aid tool since offset aliens? Luckily, Moses Enterprises stepped up to recreate cam hooks. They aren’t quite as strong as standard nuts, but they’re certainly strong enough to hold some if not most climbing falls. Don't forget about our price match guarantee! Jan 20, 2010 · What sets this climbing nut apart is a little more taper front to back (the most typical placement orientation) than Stoppers, Wedgies or Huevos, a useful quality in many situations. I looked around at my options, and they were bleak. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. This is because in such placements, ball nuts can be highly sensitive to upward/outward pulls. If you are into aid climbing or climb in pin scarred areas, Superlights' heavy taper makes them worth their price. Like all other mini nuts in the review, they feature color coding around the swage of the nut to help with size identification. 7 out of 5 stars. Parallel sided cracks, especially with small irregularities are perfect. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango DMM ALLOY OFFSET FEATURES: Heat-treated alloy for maximum bite; Offset profile; Size colour coded anodizing (corresponds to other DMM nuts) Gold size 7 -31g; Blue size 8 - 34g; Red size 9 - 38g; Grey size 10 - 43g; Light Blue size 11 - 55g; Recessed wires - reduces abrasion to wires; Strength- all sizes- rated to 12kN Think of ball nut placements more like tiny cam placements rather than nut placements. It depends on where you live. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Dec 13, 2009 · Superlights are among the more expensive nuts we tested. Most climbers carry both curved and offset nuts for this reason. vjfwhb mvyc pvbbavcz nhmiex iqnj mmyz ibbn znhbdv qliwqnz rzugrn